Friday, May 28, 2010

Surprise endings

27 May

The sun is shining when I wake, that’s a good sign that today is the day when I will actually perform for the kindergarten.
Fanel is waiting for me when I come out. Everything looks good. We walk to the school, where I seen it while wandering. We are met at the end of the alley by a wheelbarrow full of rubble. As we round the corner, there is a sea of orange helmets. The crew that I have seen working at different sites around the city has moved on to its next assignment, right across the narrow alley from the school. As we enter the yard, expecting dozens of little faces, I am stared at by empty chairs and tables. There is no school today because of the demolition work. Tomorrow too. They expect to be done by Monday, two days after I leave. What a disappointment. I can’t believe this is happening again. I had specifically requested this performance, and if it weren’t for my meeting Fanel on the street, it probably wouldn’t have even got this far.. I am bummed. Fanel didn’t know about it either. He makes a quick phone call and asks if I would like to go to another school in Cay Jacmel. It will be a taptap ride, but it is ok if I want to. I am all geared up, so we jump for it.
The school is outside of Jacmel, along the coast. It is a small school, five classrooms, all with male teachers. The children do not have uniforms, a first for me here. The director of the school volunteers to shoot video for me. I show him how to use the camera quickly. I go out in front of the school and the children gather around. Soon there are children from two other schools there too, I can tell by their uniforms. They start out very quiet,not quite sure what to make of me. Little giggles are stifled, but they warm up and soon laughter is ringing out, more people arrive. The school is out in the country, so I’,m not sure where they were coming from. It ends up with well over 100 people there. I am dripping with sweat in the morning heat, but it is all worth it. One rector takes me from class to class and takes my picture in every one. Very sweet. He wants to know when I will come back. One girl wants to learn how to juggle, bvery brave of her in fronmt of the whole school. She tries valiantly, but has some trouble.. A young boy thinks he can do better, but finds it difficult as well. I do think she understood what the pattern and rhythm are, I’m pretty sure she will figure it out on her own.
There is a moto that offers us a ride, but Fanel says we will catch a taptap. But the idea of a moto ride and the breeze cooling me off is too tempting, so I convince Fanel that I will pay for the moto. On the way back we see a man throwing pots on the side of the road. I ask if we can go back and watch him, and WE DO! This is a first for me here. Usually when I am being transported somewhere, there is no stopping al9ong the way for any reason other than a flat tire or someone vomiting! His wheel consists of a tire rim mounted on a post. It spins very freely as he nudges it along with his hand. He is just finishing one large pot as we arrive. He has a jig set up with different shapes of tin wedged in place with shims. Very ingenious. Next he throws the platter for the base. Totally fascinating to see this master at his craft. Soon there are other people stopping to watch him work. They probably pass him every day but never take the time to watch him at his creativity. I am glad I stopped to watch. I loved how he would scoop cement powder out of the bag and dust the platter to set it. I surreptitiously drop some money into the cement bag as we leave. I would have loved to see his surprise the next time he dipped into the grey powder.
Fanel leaves me on the moto to go deliver some letters, we head for the hotel but are detoured. The road is closed for some reason. My driver knows the back streets,, so we worm our way there, passing by the Marche Acrobate where I performed the other afternoon. It was fun to see the space back in its normal form, not teeming with people and ringing with laughter,
I just get into my room when I hear a band playing. I rush out onto the street to see the band disappear down the street followed by throngs of people. I gather that some bishop in the Catholic Church is visiting and these are his followers, literally. I didn’t see him but I heard he was wearing a pink hat! Is that a miter?
I returned to my room and decide to review the film shot by the director of the school I had seen him moving around a lot, hettingt lots of different angles and shots so was excited to see what he had captured. To my shock, there was absolutely nothing on the camera he had shot. It seemed that he had never turned the camera on, never pushed the record button. I am very bummed. Here was finally some footagte shot by a Haitian of a school show, and NADA. It was a great show with beautiful children. The good thing is that it is in their memory, just not the camera’s .
I go for a little walk, to visit one of the local artiste’s shop. He is not there, but I get a couple of things to bring home. As I’m walking back, I hear my name. It was my moto driver from this am.
I spend some time in the afternoon starting to organize to pack. I leave the day after tomorrow.. Fanel kept asking when I will be badk. The director of the school wanted to know when I will return. I will go into my busy season when I get home. I can’t see getting back until September or October. It seems like a long time.
I battled with going out in the afternoon. I realized I have been out multiple times every day I have been here. I decide to take a break. I am greeted by a light rain as I step outside the hotel. I did decide to just go and sit on the street and watch the late afternoon traffic. To my surpirse and gratification, I am greeted by many people who recognize me. That felt really good that in my short time here I have touched many lives, bringing a little light and a little humor to their Haitian lives.
I check my blog. I can only assume people are reading it.. It is very different than performing where I can see my audience and feel their reactions to my work. This writing thing is very differentl. In the time I have been here, I have only received 4 comments. Oh well.
I go up onto the roof to watch the rising full moon. It is beautiful, fighting it’s way through the scudding clouds. I thought that it represented the quality of lightness in a Haitian’s life. It is there, for sure, but sometimes it gets covered up, but it is still there, and with a little patience, it will appear. Hopefully my work here has been like the wind, helping to push the clouds away so the moon can be clearly seen and appreciated.
I hear my name. I see that Lindor Walking is on the roof with me; he comes toward me and presents me with another of his wonderful recycled soda bottle bags. This one has a cover. In the inset where his name was on the other one I bought were these words; Lindor Walking and Roger the Best, Haiti 2010. He wanted me to buy another bag. How could I refuse with such an inscription? He wants to return tomorrow to have me take his picture.
And so ends another day here in Jacmel. This one was full of unexpected endings.
There has been a plan afoot to go to Bassin Bleu tomorrow with Caleb and Caleb, Ben and Nick, I think it would be good to end my trip with a trip there, supposedly we will leave around 11. I’ll see what transpires.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Hi Roger!
I am finding your blog just as you are planning to leave... But I can well imagine the joy on their faces as i have seen every time you perform. What a gift!
Hope to see you next weekend at Putney.